Making a Licence Plate Tailight Mount

This is a how to post on how to make your own licence plate tail light mount using one of our Licence Plate Backing Plates with a  Model A Tail Light.  We at www.bungking.com offer our backing plate in a few different styles, the one I am going to be using in this post is one of our horizontal mount Model A style Licence plate backing plates.  Most of our other backing plates can be used in a similar fashion with the tips shown in this post.  Some will need to have, or want to for local vehicle codes, a lighted licence plate.  You can do this usually two different ways, get a tail light that has a clear window in the bottom of it that will shine down onto the licence plate or add a separate licence plate frame that has lighting in it.  In this case the Model A light has a licence plate light built in ( there are two different types make sure you get the one that has the window in it). 

These backing plates can be found at http://www.bungking.com/accessories/licence-plate.html

So I first start off with one of our CNC cut licence plate backing plates made from 1/8″ mild steel.  This is a little thicker than what most manufacturers use but the extra thickness will reduce the risk of cracking as well as reduce the chance of warping while welding.  The plate is already cut with all of the holes needed to mount the licence plate as well as the tail light making it a big time saver.

 

I first start out by deciding where I would like it to be located and in this case I am going to install it directly behind the primary drive.  The primary always stick out quite a bit so it makes a good location to install a plate, as a posed to at the rear of the bike where nothing is sticking out and may tend to catch your leg on it every time you walk by.  The belt primary in this case has two bolt holes used to hold the jackshaft support plate in place in close proximity so I will be using these holes for mounting  so that no other holes or mounts need to be installed onto the frame.  I start by making a plate that will bolt to the primary.

After the plate is made up and bolted to the primary I hold the licence plate backing plate in place where I think it looks good and tack it place.  Any adjustments are made to make sure that it is straight in all planes and then I move on to the next step.

 

The next thing I like to add is a gusset to help support the relation of the two plate I tacked together earlier.  By adding a gusset, even a small one, will reduce the risk of your weld cracking from only being supported in one plane as would happen if you had just welded the two plates together.  I have fixed many customers broken lic plate mounts that they have purchased from the aftermarket because this step was skipped. 

 

Once all of the parts are tacked in place and I am happy with the straightness of everything I pull it off of the bike and take it to the welding bench and fully weld up the assembly.

 

After it is all welded up and had a chance to cool down naturally it is time to bolt it back up to the bike and take a look at how it looks with the taillight in place.

 

By using our precut bacing plates found at http://www.bungking.com/accessories/licence-plate.html you can speed up your fabricatin process and make up a mount of your very own that looks as professional as any one you would purchase out of the catologs in a minimal ammount of time and money.  And best of all by making your own mounting system you can gaurentee that it actually fits your application.  Don’t waste the money on a finished powdercoated mount that you may have to modify to work for you when you can spend a little time and make what you want the first time.


New Battery Boxes

I have been working on creating a bunch of new product for sale for the new year, one of these categories is our new battery boxes.  The first ones out to market are for the HD YTX20 style batteries.  These seem to have become the most common in most electric start applications for custom Harleys.  They have enough cold cranking amps to turn over even larger built motors but aren’t excessively large.  Some go with the 14 series battery but you will find that you only get a few chances to get the bike started before it doesn’t have enough juice to turn the bike over anymore.  If you have a great tune up and a smaller lower compression motor you can still use the 14 series but it won’t last quite as long because of the stress put on it every time you hit the start button.  But sometimes space is a minimum so you have to do what you have to do.  I will have some boxes for the 14 series and some common import models like the XS650′s coming down the pike soon as well.  

If you would like a battery box of your own please click this link for our online store link http://www.bungking.com/accessories/battery-boxes.html

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There are two versions we are carrying now one is a bolt in style ment for those of you running the battery between the fender and the transmission, on a mount of the lower part of the frame.  This box features a bolt on top to allow for different heights from the different manufacturers, as well as two tabs on the bottom to bolt it down to a flat plate on your chassis.  This one is an open design that allows easy removal of the battery or battery box in the case that it needs to be changed.  The sides and top plate and all mounts are made from 1/8″ thick Mild Steel.  The other box is a sheet metal version for those who would like to completely cover the battery or for those who are going to cut into an oil tank and install this box inside it creating what most bikes have, an oil tank and battery box that is all one unit.  Both boxes are fully welded and metal finished.  For any of these battery boxes visit http://www.bungking.com/accessories/battery-boxes.html


Licence Plate Backing Plates

We at www.bungking.com just started making a few different styles of these universal licence plate backing plates for custom motorcycle applications.  They are being offered in a few different versions at the moment and soon to be even more as long as the demand is there.  The first ones we came out with are the universal ones that house the ever popular Ford Model A tailight.  The housing has that clean retro look without being overly large and they came with a variety of lenses depending on the year for more choices to fit your taste.  They also have a clear window at the bottom of the light to light up the licence plate to help keep you legal and better than anything they are very readily available.  We are offering the backing plates in a Vertical and a Horizontal style.  They are made out of 1/8″ thick mild steel for a long crack free life.  To view our full line of backing plates as well as other products please visit:   http://www.bungking.com/accessories/licence-plate.html

In addition to our Model A backing plates we are also offering a few other universal style mounting plates to help fit your needs.  One of them is a plate with the holes installed to match the plate as well as all of the corners radiused to match the contour of most licence plate trim rings.  The plates have no mounting system welded to them so you can do what best fits your application instead of having to modify an expensive already coated backing plate that does not mount in a way that fits your needs.  There is also another licence plate backing plate that has an integral tab  as part of it with a 3/8″ through hole.  This allows mounting of bullet style lights or any other lighting you wish that mounts with a single bolt.  Like the other Model A plates these are also made of 1/8″ thick Mild steel for easy welding, reduced warpage and a crack free long life.   

If you would like to get a hold of any of these products for yourself feel free to check pricing and availability at http://www.bungking.com/accessories/licence-plate.html

 


Motor and Trans in Place

Now that all of the suspension was set up it was time to move on to getting the motor and trans put in place.  With driveability and reliability being of high priority what we chose was all brand new rebuilds for both the motor and trans.  For the motor a new 347ci crate motor based off of the 302 block of the small block Ford, this one is rated at a little over 400 HP so it should get the job done.  It is backed with a built AOD trans, a 4 speed automatic this will keep the rpm’s low on those long freeway trips.  Once the two were coupled together they were moched up in place keeping them centered in the chassis and as far froward as possible to the radiator to be able to keep as much firewall and leg room as possible.  

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Once the proper angle was achieved and everything measured out it was time to fill the gaps from the motor to the  chassis.  Some older style rubber motor mounts were used, I was making them from scratch and liked the look and function of these hockey puck style ones.  I made up some upper plates and gussets and tacked them onto the frame rails and then moved on to the trans.  I wanted there to be a trans drop out just in case for any reason in the future the tranny had to come out by itself.  So I made up a drop out and mounted it to the transmission and then started to work out from there, first installing the lower cross bar to tie it into the frame rails to locate it.  To add some support to both the trans mount as well as the rest of the chassis I then made up a tube crossmember.  This will help the rigidity of the chassis and reduce any flexing or twist experienced under harsh driving conditions.  Note the crossmember ties into the chassis in very close proximity to both of the mounts of the rear 4 link as well as the front hairpins.

The chassis is just about ready to set the body back on to moch up all of the sheet metal, steering, brakes, firewall and I’m sure a few others…..

 


Back to a Roller

Now that the frame had already been boxed and all of the new crossmembers installed, it was time to get both of the axles mocked up in place.  I started with the front axle, it is a 4″ drop axle by Superbell complete with their disc brake set up and a mono leaf front spring.  I mocked up the chassis at ride height and set the caster angle of the axle to 7 degrees and checked for the size of tab that would be needed for the hairpin mounts.  These ended up being about 2.5″ below the chassis to the center of the hole.  I made up some 1/4″ thick steel tabs on my CNC plasma and also added some drilled gussets for extra strength and good looks.  I then cut out a new tab for the panhard bar and tacked it in place as well.

 

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Then it was time to tackle the rear suspension, I decided to go with a triangulated 4 link in the rear for its design lends itself to a lot of clearance under the chassis for exhaust and anything else you have down there, and their simple clean look.  I wasn’t happy with the quality or the price of some of the kits so I decided to make my own knowing that most the time I seem to buy a kit from someone else I end up modifying it so much it doesn’t really make sense.  I picked up some urethane front bushings and tube nuts to make up the 4 bars, these are relatively cheep and can be found usually for less than $10 each.  I mocked up our Currie 9″ housing in place at ride height and tacked some braces in place so it was locked onto the chassis so that when I was setting up all of the 4 bar tabs I didn’t bump it out of place and have to spend a bunch of time measuring and adjusting it back into place.

I then made up all of the tabs and brackets with the CNC plasma again, first welding the assemblies together and metalfinishing the welds before tacking them in place on the chassis.  Once all of the brackets were made up I tacked them all in place on the chassis and the axle making sure everything stayed in line and straight.  I then made up some bungs to insert into the chassis for the upper shock mounts, I will be using a coilover set up in the rear.  Once everything was tacked in place it all came apart and got fully welded and installed back in place.  Now We have a pretty complete rolling chassis minus some brake lines and a steering box but I wanted to mount up the motor and trans first and hopefully  next weekend I can get that accomplished!   


In House CNC Plate Cutting

 

 

For years we have farmed out most of our production plate cutting.  But as the business has grown it became time to invest in some new equipment.  At Bungking.com we are pretty set up in the turning department so it was time to venture out to help expand our product line and also help us with our in house projects.  So after some deliberation it was time to invest in some CNC plate cutting equipment.  Pictured below is some of the initial parts that came off of the machine in the first week, most of them were parts that I have made by hand countless times for in house builds I have done, it will be nice to just pull these off of the shelf when needed like I can with all of the bungs to help speed up the completion of our projects.

 

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Some of our first parts include licence plate backing plates some with the model a light mounting tab in both horizontal and vertical, all sorts of slotted mounting tabs, some more options for rubber mounting tabs, and some prototype bear claw foot pegs and shift pegs.  Our minds have been going crazy with new ideas so check back at the online store @ www.bungking.com often to see what new ideas we have came up with to help you out as well.


All Boxed In

After all of the tear down I sent out the chassis itself out to the media blaster to remove any rust or 80 year old debris for prep for modification.  As expected it came back in great shape no signs of cancer, hits or repairs.  So it was time to get down to business, I had to replace the rear crossmember with a new frame section to give some more axle clearance.  There is a 3″ kick up at the axle center line, the new section of the chassis was made from 2″ x 3″ x .120″ wall steel rectangular tube.  It took many miter cuts and some calculating but 11 pieces later and the rear section was ready to be grafted on. To help spread the load of the new frame section, plates were plug welded in place on the inside of the chassis tubing, this could also be done on the outside as well for strength but I wanted to keep it all hidden.  Some of the welds in these pics still need to be dressed and metal finished but there is still some more modifying to do in those areas so I will take care of all of it at one time later.

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The factory front crossmember was then removed to give way for a 32 style one, this will help lower the front of the car an extra inch because of it’s 1″ higher spring mount.  This crossmember also has a 7 degree pitch already built into it as well keeping the suspension bind to a minimum when running the higher degree of castor angle needed to keep the light car going down the road straight and not twitchy at high speed.  I then boxed in everything in between the crossmembers, a 3/16″ mild steel plate was welded to the inside of the channel of the frame creating a much more stable structure.  A temporary center crossmember was then added to keep everything in line, a more permanent and substantial one will be added once I mount the motor and trans in place.


1995 Softail Nostalgia

This bike started as a bone stock 1995 Softail nostalgia. Both of the fenders were modified for a longer look. To highlight the new fenders completely hand made one piece fender trim was made for both fenders to keep the stock appearance but with a little twist. I hand made a new set of pipes from straight tube and u bends complete with heat shields drilled to match the rest of the bike. The bulky factory dash was removed and I hand made a new sheet metal one along with a new filler panel to complete it. A new custom made shifter linkage with some modified arms was then set in place. The tail light is a 50 Pontiac, that a custom mount had been made for it as well.

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I also made up a custom belt gaurd, and modified the horn and coul covers to match one of our drilled air cleaned covers.  Once all of the fab was done parts were sent off to the chromer as well as custom paint and grafix to mimic an early Harley emblem that was done by Greedy Fly Grafix. All of the body work and base coat by Stockdale’s Hot Rod paint.  All and all a very classy look.


Model A tear down

So after a day of fooling around it was time to get down to business, the end product we are trying to achieve was not a bone stock restoration, but a full fendered chopped hot rod with all late model running gear.  So the time came to strip the car down, luckily dad was still in town to lend a hand a help be a part of the project.  After a long day of carefully tearing the car down and bagging and labeling parts for the future there wasnt much left of it.  In a day we turned a perfectly good car into a pile of parts but like most projects it has to look worse before it has a chance to look better. 

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I am going to be reusing the factory chassis so after teardown it was off to the sandblaster along with a batch of other parts.  When the chassis comes back it will get a bunch of modifications to run an updated suspension and handle the torque of the stroker small block ford we have waiting to be installed in it.


Dad’s New 5 Window Model A

My dad has always dreamed of having a hot rod of his own.  I can remember the trips to the local car shows and weekends at Hot August nights in Reno NV from when I was a kid.  He always gravitated to the early 30′s hot rods usually painted bright red, I’m not sure why that era or style, not sure if he even knows either but those were the car for him.  He has never had a hot rod of his own and has only a few times had a chance to take a ride in one.  Being the owner of a Custom Fab shop for many years we figured it was time to make his dream come true.  After years of looking for the right donor for the project I finally found one that would suit our needs.  What I found was a 1930 Ford Model A 5  Window coupe.

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The car was in untouched condition for the most part.  The drivetrain was left completely stock, along with most of the rest of the car.  As the story goes the car came from a barn in Oregon and was in the same family from purchase new till around 1999.  The car changed hands twice after and we are now the fourth owner of the 81 year old car.  The Model A was still in driving condition so I had to have dad come out for a ride.  He flew out a week after I received the car for  the weekend to get behind the wheel of this time capsule before we tore it down.  There arent many people who have had the chance to get to drive a bone stock car from the 30′s, and by the end of the weekend there wasnt much left in tact so it was good that he came hen he did.


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